easy Crochet Doll ideas Beginners Amigurumi Rabbit Tutorial
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In today’s post, we will create the basic doll and, since it cannot remain in desabillè, even small lingerie. In the next appointment, we will work on the dress and the other accessories.
This first part is within everyone’s reach, and since some of you are just starting out, let’s start with the basics.
To crochet the doll you need to know how to start work with the magic ring, single crochet, and invisible increases and decreases.
If, on the other hand, you already know an expert, proceed with the explanation.
Crochet an amigurumi doll.
THE DIFFICULTIES OF TODAY
The main difficulty we will encounter today is the color change without creating steps. But let’s proceed in order.
CAT: chain stitch
MBSS: very low mesh
MB: single jersey
THE DOLL’S HEAD
Start knitting with 1 magic ring of 6 MB. Close the magic ring with 1 MBSS on the first link created on the ring. From this point on, the processing will continue in a spiral, that is, following the sequence of stitches without closing the loop.
TIP: To avoid losing your place when the round ends, insert a placeholder clip in the first stitch of the round. With each change of turn, move the clip to the top row.
INITIAL NOTE: To create the spheres, in amigurumi, some of you prefer to close each round with a slip stitch and start again with the new round with 1 chain stitch. This is also a correct method, only by doing so, a clear line is formed at the point where the round closes, and I don’t like it. In the case of the head, if you prefer you can also adopt this method, as long as the part is hidden under the hair.
You can choose to work the sphere as you like, but for this post, as for the following ones, unless otherwise specified, the turns are worked in succession, that is spiral.
1st round: (1 increase for each stitch) repeat 6 times = 12 MB
2nd round: (1 increase and 1 MB) repeat 6 times = 18 MB
3rd round: 1 MB – 1 AUM – (1 increase and 2 MB) repeat 5 times – finish with 1 MB = 24 MB
4th round: (1 increase and 3 MB) repeat 6 times = 30 MB
5th round: 1 MB each point below – no increases = 30 MB
6th round: 2 MB – 1 AUM – (1 increase and 4 MB) repeat 5 times – finish with 2 MB = 36 MB
NOTE: You will have noticed that the way to start the increases changes every other round. With this method the sphere will be nice round, preventing it from taking a hexagonal shape as it grows.
7th round: (1 increase and 5 MB) repeat 6 times = 42 MB
8th round: 3 MB – 1 AUM – (1 increase and 6 MB) repeat 5 times – finish with 3 MB = 48 MB
from the 9th to the 14th round: (6 rounds) 1 MB each point below – no increases = 48 MB
15th round: 3 MB – 1 DIM – (1 decrease and 6 MB) repeat 5 times – finish with 3 MB = 42 MB
16th round: (1 decrease and 5 MB) repeat 6 times = 36 MB
17th round: 2 MB – 1 DIM (1 decrease and 4 MB) repeat 5 times – finish with 2 MB = 30 MB
Round 18: (1 decrease and 3 MB) repeat 6 times = 24 MB
19th round: 1 MB – 1 DIM (1 decrease and 2 MB) repeat 5 times – finish with 1 MB = 18 MB
Pad the head with synthetic wadding.
NOTES: the best filling is the synthetic wadding called bow because it is softer and distributes well throughout the space. I usually buy the filling of a living room pillow and open it, but be careful because if it is wadding in layers, it will be more difficult to create a good filling.
20th round: (1 decrease and 1 MB) repeat 6 times = 12 MB
21 round: 1 decrease each stitch below and close the work making the last slip stitch. Hold 20 inches of thread to join the head to the body.
THE BODY OF THE DOLL
1st round: Start by doing 9 chains and go back working as follows: 7 MB – 3 MB in the same point – (work on the other side of the base chain) 6 MB – 3 MB in the same point and close the first round with 1 MBSS = total 20 MB
2nd round: 1 chain stitch for the lift – work 20 sc and close the round with 1 MBSS.
3rd round: 1 chain stitch for the lift – work 20 sc and close the round with 1 MBSS.
From the 4th round onwards, the work continues in a spiral, ie without closing the work with the MBSS.
4th round: work 20 MB.
5th round: do 8 MB and 1 decrease x 2 times = 18 MB
6th round: perform 7 MB and 1 decrease x 2 times = 16 MB
7th round: do 6 MB and 1 decrease x 2 times = 14 MB
8th round: work 14 MB.
9th round: perform 5 MB and 1 decrease x 2 times = 12 MB
10th round: work 12 MB
Close with 1 MBSS and leave a 20 cm piece of thread.
LEGS AND ARMS.
Now we need to create the two mini arms. With the pink colorwork a small magic ring of 4 MB. As for the head, the legs and arms must also be worked in a spiral. After making the magic ring, work the following stitches on the next round: 1 MB – 1 increase – 1 MB – 1 increase = 6 MB.
Do another 9 full rounds of 6MB. Lightly stuff the arm with cotton wool. If you find it difficult because the arm is small, help yourself with the flat side of the hook.
After stuffing close the arm, folding it in half, and joining two sides, simultaneously taking 2 opposing MB, with 1 MB. In total it is 3 MB. At this point close the work and leave 20 cm of wire to weld the arm.
For the legs we start with the gray color and work a small magic ring of 4 MB. As for the head, the legs and arms must also be worked in a spiral. After making the magic ring, work the following stitches on the next round: 1 MB – 1 increase – 1 MB – 1 increase = 6 MB. On the next round work in sequence: 2 MB – 1 increase – 2 MB – 1 increase = 8 MB.
Work another 4 full rounds with 8 MB with gray color.
At this point, we need to change color and switch to pink to finish the leg by working another 6 full rounds with 8MB for each round. The leg should not be closed as done for the arms but left open and padded with cotton wool.
HOW TO CHANGE COLOR IN AMIGURUMA WITHOUT SEEING THE STAIRCASE.
I would like to open a brief parenthesis, before moving on to the packaging of the doll, to explain a very important technical detail in the processing of amigurumi: how to change the color of the yarn without seeing the step in the processing.
This topic is very important not only for this post but also for all the others that will follow, where there will be color changes (for example in the hat to create the red bands).
Working in a spiral, that is, without closing the rounds, when you have to change the color of the yarn, we are faced with two choices: The classic method and the invisible change. In the first case, with the traditional method, a step is created in the change of yarn. If the color change is hidden, ie in a place where it is not visible, it can be a quick method; but if the color change is in a visible point (such as in this leg or in the hat), the step is ugly to see.
DOLL PACKAGING AND HAIR EMBROIDERY.
To make the doll also stuff the body and attach the upper part (the narrower one) to the sphere (be careful not to make a mistake).
The joins of the pieces are always done with the invisible stitch. If you don’t remember here is the photo of how it is done.
Attach the legs and arms last.
Embroidering a doll’s hair may seem easy, but it’s not always true. I chose a crop with two braids.
To embroider the hair I usually use a mattress needle (they are 15 cm long and beautiful large needles), and a 1-meter long piece of thread, used twice.
Do not make knots because by inserting the needle into the inside of the head, the thread hangs by itself in the middle of the wadding.
See how to proceed with the direction of the hair in this photo
I embroidered the fringe and the front first and then the whole head in the back.
To make the braids, I inserted 6 strands 30 cm long in a single point, just below the ear area. I worked a braid divided into three parts, each part with 4 strands.
For the eyes I preferred to embroider them with black embroidery thread, but if you prefer you can use the plastic eyes for amigurumi and sew or glue them. Personally, I don’t like them very much but that’s my opinion.
The last effort for today is lingerie. Waiting for the next post with the dress we cannot leave her so naked. So here’s how to make a nice pair of white underpants.
Work 13 chain stitches and close them in a circle with 1 MBSS, work 13 more chain stitches and close by forming a second circle with another MBSS. Now you have formed a kind of eight. Start working on both 12 MB base chains and then another 12 Mb on the other side without stopping the round. Continuing in a spiral work 6 full rounds of single crochet and one last round (the seventh) with only slip stitches.
Close the job. If you want the panties to be higher, increase the turns.
The lingerie is ready to be worn and stopped with 2 points at the hips.
We’re done for today.
The post was long but also full of explanations that you will need for the next schemes.
If you have any doubts write below or in the group.
See you soon.
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